Acknowledgments

Program SWAR

The creation of this guide has been supported by Program SWAR.

In the textile industry, the operating expenses consist of the following key elements: natural resources (both water and energy), labor, materials and chemicals. With natural resources becoming expensive and scarce, managing it and deriving efficiencies is necessary for the future competitiveness of the industry.

In that context, the SWAR program was conceived by Indiska, KappAhl and Lindex in association with the Stockholm International Water Institute (SIWI).It is a cooperation program between Indian Textile Companies, Swedish buyers and SIWI and will focus on promoting Sustainable WAter Resource (SWAR) Management for the textile factories in Delhi and Jaipur. Program SWAR has been supported by the Swedish Government through its international development agency: SIDA.

The aim of the program is to:
(a) to improve resource management that leads to resource conservation

(b) build capacity so that the textile companies can continuously work on improving resource management

cKinetics, a specialized Sustainability advisory firm with a team of experts in the textile and apparel domain has been supporting the program.

The cKinetics team in consultation with a group of handprinting experts from the Jaipur Bloc and some textile experts have produced this document. It is meant to serve as a guide for new and existing hand-printing manufacturers to understand the principles of resource usage.

 

Contributors

Dr. Raosaheb B.Chavan

Dr. Chavan is an acclaimed textile expert, and, during his long career, he has worked both with businesses and academic institutions. He stated his career with the Tata Group (Svadeshi mills) as a Chemist and then joined Gwalior and Shri Ram Mills Mumbai as Chief Chemist. In 1977 he joined Textile Techmology Department of IIT Delhi and from 1986-2004 he served as a Professor. From 1998-2001 he was Head of the Department. During his academic career at IIT Delhi he guided 13 PhD theses and published 150 research papers in national, international journals and conference proceedings. After his superannuation from IIT Delhi he worked as visiting Professor for four years at the Institute of Technology for textile, Garment and Fashion Design (Iotex) at Bahir ar University at Ethiopia and also guided a PhD thesis on natural dyes.

Dr. Chavan graduated in Chemistry (Hons, first class) from Marathwada University, Aurangabad and then proceeded to do his B.Sc. (Tech) and M.Sc (Tech) Textile Chemistry at the University Department of Chemical Technology (popularly known as UDCT) at the University of Mumbai. He was also awarded the teaching assistantship at the University of Manchester, Institute of science and Technology (UMIST) for his doctorate thesis on solvent dyeing of cotton.

He has won many awards and laurels during his career, most prominent of which include:

1. Perkin Centenary prize (UMIST), for his valuable contribution to colour chemistry
2. Marathwada University prize for securing second rank at B.Sc (Hons) in the university.
3. Colorage Gold Medal for best original research paper contribution on transfer printing of polyester cottan blends published in the journal COLOURAGE.

Vikram Joshi

Mr. Joshi is a textile technologist and currently heads “Rangotri”, a state-of-the-art production unit / workshop where the processing, dyeing, printing and stitching of fabric (and the packaging of finished products) are all done in-house to ensure the highest standards of quality. Rangotri, under the guidance of Mr. Joshi, has gained recognition for its exclusive designs, color combinations, commitment to quality and to the environment.

Mr. Joshi has also made creative innovations in the use of vegetable dyes to evolve new color recipes and developed new printing techniques and has made valuable contributions to the standardization of dyeing procedures and the retrieval of rare and traditional (Sanganeri) patterns.

Kamaldeep Kaur

Ms. Kaur is an experienced expert in Textile dyeing and is currently leading, Damask, a brand producing fashion accessories like stoles and shawls and soft furnishings. She holds a 2 year design diploma in fashion from New Delhi and started her career with the Gujarat state emporium in 1998. Her deep rooted interest in dyeing and printing led her to explore traditional techniques, which were prevalent in the villages of Gujarat. In 1998, she was selected by the Ministry of textiles for short (6 month) project in tie and dye, where she worked with 2 different groups in clamp and baandhani technique. The results of this project were regarded as being very valuable and lead to 6 more projects. From 1998 – 2006, Ms. Kaur worked on delivering these projects, which required her to stay with the crafting communities in the villages of Gujarat. Damask also was the result of this stint by Ms. Kaur, the results of which were appreciated by many companies and industry members

Ms. Kaur has travelled across the world, showcasing the exquisiteness of Indian arts and crafts, giving workshops in related techniques and has addressed industry members at many specialized textile conferences and institutes.

Devender K.Sharma

Mr. Sharma is an experienced textile expert, with exhaustive experience in the field of testing and quality assurance. Presently, he serves a Textile Consultant with cKinetics, India’s only Sustainability advisory firm with operational capabilities. Prior to cKinetics, Mr. Sharma worked with North India Textile Research Association (NITRA), in R&D, for 8 years. Mr. Sharma also has worked in the industry with different units, including DCM, for 10 years.

Mr. Sharma Graduated in Textile Chemistry (B.Text) from G.C.T.I. Kanpur. He is a certified internal auditor for QMS and EMS by QMI, New Delhi. Mr. Sharma has more than 10 technical paper to his credit, which have been published in leading industrial publications such as Colourage, ITJ, ATJ and AATCC.

Raj Kanwar

Ms. Kanwar is a textile designer with 40 years of experience in textile crafts, specializing in Hand Block printing & Vegetable Dyes. She is the founder of Ojjas which specializes in Hand Block Printing and Vegetable Dyes. Ojjas markets its products both in the domestic and international market and has an ideology of Sustainable products in every sense of the word: right from its environmental practices, like recycling water, water harvesting, conservation of energy and resource, to fair wages and building up its human resource, creating awareness about the conservation of its tradition – specially Crafts, through workshops and other means.

In the past, she has also been part of the core team that set up the Indian Institute of Crafts & Design in Jaipur, and taught textile craft design as an Associate Professor in the same institute.

Jaipur BLOC

Jaipur Bloc is the banner under which a consortium of hand-printing manufacturers and dyeing companies operate in Bagru (near Jaipur), Rajasthan. The consortium operates out of a model eco-friendly textile park, with a wide variety of infrastructural facilities for effluent & sewage treatment, rain water harvesting, water recycling and conservation, and energy conservation.

Through its manufacturing facilities and practices, Jaipur Bloc is pioneering the concept of ‘Sustainable Textile for Sustainable Development’ where the resource foot-print is being minimized from the design phase itself. The park is located at Bagru, which is known all over the world for its traditional textiles, various styles of hand block printing and related skills.

Delphi Group as a part of Program SWAR

As a part of Program SWAR several members of the park came together to form an expert consultation group (referred to as the Delphi Group) that came together to document resource usage practices that are particular to the hand-printing units. Participants of the key deliberations of the Delphi Group included:

1. Manish Tibrewal, Rasa
2. Dhananai Singh, Ojjas
3. Raj Kanwar, Ojjas
4. Amitabh Patni, Gitto
5. Gitto Patni, Gitto
6. Suvira Sheoran, CEO, Jaipur Bloc
7. Vishal Choudhary, Parampara
8. Vikram Joshi, Rangotri
9. Stephen Ruffes, Anokhi
10. Anil Mehra, Consultant, Anokhi

External experts that participated in the Delphi group conversations included Dr. JV Rao, Director General, NITRA (Northern India Textile Research Association)

Representatives of the following organizations participated
in the meetings and discussions:

1. Genecor on enzymatic scouring
2. Dyestar on new technology in dyeing
3. Clariant on process innovation and low temperature dyeing
4. Zydex on new technology in pigment dyeing
5. Huntsman on use of low salt dyes

Jaipur Bloc Members

The consortium that forms Jaipur Bloc include the following members:

• Anokhi
• Aravali
• Cotton Curio
• Desert Artisans Handicraft (Fabindia)
• Gitto
• Goodwill Designcraft
• Gulabchand Prints
• Hot Pink
• Kuber Prints
• Marudhara Dyetech
• Nayika
• Nirmal Handicrafts
• Ojjas
• Parampara
• RD Tradelinks
• Rangotri
• Rasa
• Sampada
• Soma
• Suprint